[post written by rod]
my first rim-to-rim day hike of the grand canyon was back in 2008. it was such a great experience that i wanted to do it again, and of course i shouldn't be selfish and hog all the breath-taking vistas and pain for myself. why not share it with friends so they can also meet the pain train?
our group started out all smiles as we left for the north rim on friday night. ken wallace was kind enough to be our driver and after the 4.5 hour trip to the north rim we spent the night at the rustic, but comfortable kaibab lodge. we got about 4 hours of sleep and ate a quick bite for breakfast in the car on the way to the trailhead. the hike started out with crisp 25 degree temperatures so everyone had to put on an extra layer to start the trek.
my best friend matt flew down from canada for the hike and ended up being the trip's de-facto ansel adams, being the only one brave enough to lug a digital slr camera on the hike. the morning trek down the north rim was one of the highlights of the trip as the north rim is heavily wooded and the trail meanders along the canyon walls with dizzying drop-offs providing spectacular photo opportunities.
about 10 miles down the north rim we reached the canyon floor and we followed the trail as it moved through narrow canyons next to small creeks running down into the colorado river. at mile 15 we reached phantom ranch, situated 1 mile north of the colorado river. about half our group got our camelbacks and water bottles filled before the system providing the drinkable water stopped working. temperatures during this part of the day reached 100 degrees and the rangers told everyone to stay at phantom ranch until 4pm. over the next hour we ate lunch and the rest of our team were able to get their water bottles filled. brad looked like a buddhist monk as he sat absolutely motionless for nearly 45 minutes in order to fill his camelback from a dripping spigot.
we left phantom ranch at 1pm and crossed the colorado river on a steel suspension bridge provided for hikers. the river was very full and raging so it is a good thing we didn't have to swim across (although with the 100 degree temperatures we contemplated jumping in to cool off). after crossing the colorado river we hiked through a mile long section of trail that was mostly sand and the sun reflected off it like a tanning mirror. we then proceeded another 4.5 miles to indian gardens, the next water stop and the start of the climb out of the canyon.
the final 4.5 miles from indian gardens is there the real pain train started. some trekkers said at different points in the day that they knew why i had said that they would feel the pain train, but i assured them that the pain train was coming much later. what is that i hear? chooo-chooo, yes, the pain train has arrived. the final 4.5 miles of the hike was comprised of never-ending switch-backs up the north rim with water and rest-stops every 1.5 miles. however, each 1.5 miles felt like the longest 1.5 miles of our lives.
fortunately, all trekkers made it out under their own power and our trip concluded with a stop at mcdonalds right outside the park gate where ken wallace stared in disbelief at the amount of food we ordered and pounded down. i am confident that i will never look at licorice, cliff bars, or trail mix the same ever again. (recently inquiries have been made by some team members about doing the trip again in october... the pain train lives on).
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